This guide was published in November 1945 for members of the Flying Tigers, the most famous of the U.S. military units that fought in China during the anti-Japanese war and assisted the Nationalists in their civil war against the Communists. The city had been recovered from the Japanese only three months earlier, but judging from the guide, it had quickly recovered its old reputation.
Office of the Commanding General
A.P.O. 287,
c/o Postmaster New York City, New York
MILITARY COURTESY
It is the demeanor which distinguishes military personnel from non-military personnel, and has been the custom of armed forces through the ages.
It is the spirit of comradeship among officers and men who wear the uniform. It is the mark of military efficiency and morale in a military organization.
Outward manifestations of military courtesy are neatness of the uniform, proper bearing, and the salute.
Prompt renditions of the salute among all military ranks is a greeting that combines courtesy with friendly recognition. It is the symbol of military manners.
The efficiency of the 14th Air Force in this city will be judged by our comrades in the United States Forces and our allies largely upon our observance of military courtesy. It is essential that we bear this in mind so that the reputation of our famed 14th Air Force will be enhanced.
Major - General. USA
Commanding
Shanghai's metamorphosis from a stretch of mudflats, a little over a hundred years ago, to the modern metropolis of today, was not experienced without great trials. On many occasions its very existence was threatened and the danger of it being engulfed in serious warfare was very real, particularly in 1927, when the Nationalist Army fought close to the city walls; 1932 when the 19th Route Army held the Japanese for three months; and 1937, when it was one of the major battlefields of the China War.
Paradoxically, although Shanghai has probably been threatened with destruction by modern warfare more frequently than any other city in the world, the fact remains that it is one of the few large cities that have suffered little of the ravages of actual fighting. Today, its famous Bund stands unscathed, its magnificent concrete buildings giving the lie to those who predicted the end of the city as an important world port.
Not without reason has Shanghai been called the "City of Refuge." Within its friendly boundaries have been sheltered the refugees, in teeming thousands, of two large countries. Shortly after the Russian Revolution, White Russians immigrated into Shanghai and made it their home. Twenty years later, Jewish Refugees from Central Europe found haven here from Hitler. Today the Russians and Europeans, numerically speaking, outnumber the rest of the foreign population here put together.
The city, being the entry port for all imports to the whole of China, has been the scene of bitter trade battles between the world powers for the China market. The heaviest foreign investments in Shanghai are held by the British, who also took the greatest role in the building up of this great city. America, France, Germany and Japan also have heavy stakes in Shanghai.
With the abolishrnent of extrality, the foreign individual or business in Shanghai naturally comes under Chinese jurisdiction. The days when this city was run by a handful of white men comprising the Shanghai Municipal Council are over.
Shanghai has been restored to China, and it is not for those of the West to regret its passing from foreign hands, but to hope for its increasing prosperity governed by a nation that has fought eight hard years to free themselves from the aggression of the Japanese.
britches, remember, they are taking you home.
Places Barbershops Snack Counters
Foreign Y.M.C.A B S
Rockefeller Foundation B S
Astor House B S
Race Course B S
Grosvenor House B S
Magnet House, "Wheelock Building" S
(Officers' Clothing Store)
Navy Y.M.C.A B
New Asia B
Haig Court . B
Kiangwan Air Base B
German School B
Broadway Mansion B
Yukong Wharf B
Air Service Command B
Marine Barracks B
Sales Store Hamilton House B
Kiangwan Air Depot B
Lungwha Air Field B
French Club B
841 Ave. Petain B
HQ C.T.R.S B
The following services are available at all Post Exchanges: Go to school on duty time.
Contact your Special Services Officer in regard to transportation to the following centers:
Navy YMCA - 630 Szechuen Road - Basketball, volley ball, gymnastics, swimming, boxing.
Foreign YMCA -150 Bubbling Well Road - Basketball, volleyball, badminton, handball, swimming, howling, gymnastics, boxing, wrestling and golf driving range.
Race Course - 305 Bubbling Well Road - Volleyball, softball, baseball, football, bowling, horseback riding, archery.
Italian Club - 3001 Bubbling Well Road - Tennis, badminton, volleyball, softball, boxing and gymnastics.
Lunghwa Airfield - Shotguns and ammunition may be drawn from Special Services Office for hunting.
St. Johns University - 188 Jessfield Road - Golf, pitchputt, longest hole 160 yards.
French Club - Rue Cardinal Mercier - Softball, touch football, volleyball.
The Red Cross Headquarters in the Foreign YMCA at 150 Bubbling Well Road, should be your down town headquarters. They are ideally equipped to help you use your spare time to its best advantage. Read their daily list of activities giving the hours for tours, dancing lessons, lectures and all sorts of special events.
One of the most famous commodities that Shanghai has to sell is its night life. Thanks to the lavish spending of U.S. personnel this industry has snapped back to normal with a vengeance. The following list is an attempt to classify the various establishments into broad categories. Inevitably, not everyone will agree with the conclusions.
For the closest thing to Stateside food:
Jimmy's - 133 Nanking Road.
Bakerite - 883 Bubbling Well Road.
In a class by themselves:
Senet - 1363 Rue Lafayette. Superlative food, Italian style. Prices high but worth it. Prices on drinks, though, are for general officers only.
Max Frankel Café - 63 Wayside, near Broadway. Unexcelled chocolate cakes, cookies, etc. Only coffee to drink, no liquor, beer, girls, or music.
Cafe Ohio-114 Ward Road (Hongkew). Mostly for drinking, sandwiches and hot dogs only. Small, comfortable and congenial.
In Hong kew there are a lot of German refugee places: no large bands nor much dancing, and all with a European atmosphere and not too exciting, though your money will go a little further here as a rule.
· Lion Café - 26 Muirhead Road.
· Sun Café - 8 Muirhead Road.
· Delikat - 23 Chusan Road.
· Barcelona - 21 Chusan Road.
· International - 81 Chusan Road.
· White Horse Café - 178 Ward Road.
And on 225 Broadway the Dollar Cafe, a Chinese operated facsimile of "Jimmy's", specializing in Waffle and Hot Cakes.
In Frenchtown, not too far from Headquarters, you will find a multitude of places. You can get Russian food at most of them.
Constantinople - 1011 Ave Joffre.
Flaker - 977 Ave Joffre.
Mexicana American Bar - 1006 Ave Joffre.
Rennaisance - 795 Ave Joffre.
Kavkiz - 772 Ave Joffre.
D Ds - 815 Ave Joffre.
Venturi Restaurant - Ave du Roi Albert - Italian.
And if you must go to the following, remember you have been warned, the prices are high.
Arcadia, Paramount, Atomic, Ciro's, Mandarin.
Advice on what and how much to pay for native Chinese products, such as silk, bronze, porcelain, jade and curios in general is a presumption not warranted in a guide book. However, the following items are presented for your consideration.
For one thing, whatever it cost you, it is not likely that you were gypped. If you hadn't wanted the object, there was no one to force you to buy it. A good rule to remember is, if you want it, establish the minimum price he will accept and then stop for a moment and cooly make up your mind whether the price represents what you are willing to pay. Can you buy the same thing at home for less money? Is it something that other people will admire? And, in the final analysis, if the article has been misrepresented to you as to age, or quality, will it make any difference to you? Once you decide you really want it, by all means buy it. It's Chinese, it's a memento of your stay in China, and it's a cinch that when you are back home, you will really prize. it.
As to the facts about porcelain: Most porcelain come from Kingtechen, Kiangsi. Plain white porcelain, especially figures, is called "blanc de chine" and comes from Fukien. Porcelain is not "old" unless it is about Ch'ien Lung Period, 1795 A.D. Porcelain stores will not be likely to have old pieces. These will he in the hands of curio dealers. Tap the edge of a plate, cup or bowl to see if it rings. A cracked piece will not give the resonant, bell-like tone of good porcelain.
As to the facts about jade. Jade may be any colour, white, red mauve and grey, as well as green. Jade is a stone, hard and brittle, often showing veins. The price may range from 10 cents to $10,000, depending on the quality, age and carving. The price of jewel jade depends largely on size and even coloring. Jewel jade is a clear translucent stone, bright green. "Spinach" jade and "New jade or Soochow jade" are not jade, they are jasper. Soapstone imitations can be scratched with a knife. Glass imitations are a clear beautiful green, but usually have bubbles inside instead of the green veins of real jade. Don't buy jade in a dim light. Do examine it well and look for flaws or cracks in the stone. Don't expect to get jewel jade at bargain prices.
In regards to where to buy, there is no infallable guide. But first, go to the Curio P.X. in Hamilton House on Kiangsi Road and observe prices. The Army is rendering a real service for you in having for sale there only goods that have a fair price on them arrived at only after appraisal by art expert and versed to be as represented in regard to age and fineness.
The following shops have too much to lose if they continually take their customers for a ride. They are reputable dealers, in business for many years, and have acquired their standing through fair dealing.
One Price Lace Co. - 53 Nanking Road. Linen, Table cloths, handkerchiefs, embroideries.
Oriental Star Underwear Co. - Museurn Road. Linen, embroidery, house coats.
"Vogue" - 971 Ave Joffre.
Lao Kai Fook - 257 Nanking Road - silk.
Dah Luen - Nanking Road - silk.
Green Dragon - 2nd floor, Central Arcade. Nanking and Szechuen Road - Curios, jade.
Yee Chun Chang - 38 Kiangse Road.
The Little Pagoda - 57 Nanking Road.
Lee Wah Porcelain Co., Ltd. - 41 Nanking Road,
Kien Hwa Porcelain Co., Ltd.-550 Nanking Road.
However, it is well worth while looking in those big department stores near the race course. They have all of these articles and their cutomers are 99% Chinese who will not buy there if the prices are out of line. Also, the price tags, are fixed and readable.
Wing On - Nanking Road.
Sincere Co - Nanking Road.
Sun Sun Co. - Nanking Road.
The Sun Co. - Nanking Road.
KEY TO MAP OF
DOWN TOWN SHANGHAI
1. New Asia Hotel 15. Cathay Hotel
2. Embankment Building 16. Chocolate Shop
3. Navy Motor Pool 17. Chase National Bank
4. Broadway Mansions 18. Palace Hotel
5. Astor House (NABU 13)
6. Capitol Theater 19. Customs Jetty
7. Navy Y.M.C.A. 20. Metropol Hotel
8. Navy Supply 21. Cable Office
Warehouse 22. American Club
9. Glen Line Building 23. Development Building
10. Grand Theater 24. Hamilton House
11. Park Hotel 25. Y.M.C.A.
12. Foreign Y.M.C.A. 26. Wheelock Building
13. Pacific Hotel 27. Stars and Stripes
14. Navy Officer's Club 28. Nanking Theater
PLACES OF WORSHIP
Shanghai is the greatest missionary center in China. More than twenty Christian faiths and organizations have their headquarters here. Of the three branches of mission work, Educational, Medical and Evangelistic, naturally the latter is the best known. And the Flying Tigers from the interior of China will know the valuable services these devout workers have rendered to men who have been forced down or injured in the "Wild West" of China.
CIVILIAN CHURCHES IN SHANGHAI:
Protestant Churches:
Holy Trinity (Episcopal), 243 Kiangse Road. Holy Communion 8 a.m., Matfins 10.30, Evensong, especially for Americans, 6.30 p.m. Sunday.
Union Church (Interdenominational), 107 Soochow Road. 10.30, 6.30 p.m, Sunday.
Moore Memorial Church (Methodist) 316 Yu Ya Ching Road. (Race Track) Service 10.30 a.m. Sunday.
Community Church, 53 Avenue Petain. Service -11,00 a.m. Sunday.
Shanghai Free Christian Church, 57 Tifeng Road. Service-10.30 a.m. Sunday.
Roman Catholic Churches:
St. Aloysuis Church (American Jesuit Fathers). 734 Kiaochow Road. 6 and 7 a.m.
Church of Christ the King - 235 Rue Bourgear. Masses-6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 1 1.
St. Joseph's Church, 36 Rue Montauban. Masses, 7, 8.15, 10.
Orthodox Catholic Church
Russian Orthodox Mission Church, 55 Rue Paul Henry. Masses 7 and 9.30 a.m.
Jewish Synagogue
Obel Rachel Synagogue, 510 Seymour Road (off Bubbling Well Road) Service-Friday Evening at 7 p,m., Transportation furnished. Home invitations after Services.
Other:
First Church of Christ Scientist, 1647 Avenue Road. Services-11 a.m. and 7 p.rn. Sunday.
· Morman Services: Foreign Y, Sunday 7 p.m.
Confucius
PIDGIN ENGLISH
At one time Shanghai used quite a lot of Pidgin English. Don't use it nowadays unless plain English fails altogether. The Portuguese, among the earliest of all the traders in the far East, contributed "Compradore' a purchasing agent, from "Compra", 'to buy," "Joss" for God, from "Dios", "junk" from "Chueng".
Indian words are: "Tiffin' - lunch, "Godown" - a warehouse, from "Kadang", and "Chit" - bill.
The Chinese words are "Chow" for food, "Kumshaw" for a tip, and "Typhoon" from "Tai-fong", great wind.
|
There Here Do you understand? I don't understand. Where is it? Where is that from? I don't know. Wait a bit. Be quick. Come at once. Never mind. Can you do this for me? Go upstairs. Go downstairs. I will pay you later. I want it like that. Get me a rickshaw. Get me the laundry man. |
That side This side Savvy? Me no savvy. What side? What side catchee? Me no savvy. Man, Man. Auso. Chop, chop. Maskee. Can do? Go topside. Go hottomside. Bime bye makee pay. Wanchee all same that. Catchee me one piece rickshaw. Catchee me one piece washman. |
To visit some of the famous beauty spots of China you do not have to go far from Shanghai. One of the most beautiful places in China is Hangchow. The beauty of this city lies in its famous hills, and its innumerable temples and pagodas. Hangchow's famous West Lake is one of the well-known beauty spots of China with its floating tea houses and innumerable small craft.
Another place to visit is Soochow - famed for its beautiful women. The women of Soochow have smoother skin, and better figures than anywhere else in the Flowery Kingdom. It is a very ancient City full of Pagodas and gardens and is completely crisscrossed with canals.
Nanking, which will once again be the capital of China, possesses many attractions of historical interest. It is here that the government policies for the whole of China will be formulated, and its magnificent government buildings represent a marvellous blending of old-style and modern architecture. especially the National Shrine to the memory of Dr. Sun Yat-Sen.
Up north, Peiping, the age-old former capital of China, with its "Forbidden City", takes one a thousand years back into China's antiquity. Crumbling palaces remind one of the grandeur of China, and the Great Wall which runs past Peiping, brings home the fact that China has never really been free from war for centuries.
Although it can hardly he called a "beauty spot", the Chinese City of Shanghai is worth seeing. The Willow Pattern Tea House is a place tourists have always placed on their "must" list. It is a picturesque building on stone pillars set into a pool, approached by zig-zag bridges, because the Chinese believe that evil spirits travel in straight lines and are fooled by crooked ones. But as the city is out of bounds, special arrangements must be made to take the trip.
The Ziccawei Observatory is where Shanghai's weather - if not actually made - is forecast. The leading meteorological station in the Far East, its reputation is known the world over. It is operated by Jesuit Fathers, who also run several charitable institutions where Shanghai's destitute are taught useful crafts in return for their keep.
The seven-storied Lunghwa Pagoda in addition to being one of the scenic spots close to Shanghai, has had an interesting history. Originally, it was attached to an important temple, but today the crumbling Pagoda is the only thing left of its glorious past. It has always proved a fine subject for the camera or paint brush.
Shanghai boasts of two museums, the Royal Asiatic Society's Museum and the Heude Museum. Here Chinese fossils, collections of curios and coins, representative examples of 'Chinese flora and fauna are neatly displayed. When you have seen some, or all, of these places, plus what you know so well about the interior places of China, you will have gained a greater insight into the customs and lives of this great nation of 450,000,000 people.
TRANSPORTATION RATES
TAXI RATES
Twenty minutes (minimum) CN 600
Thirty minutes CN 900
One hour CN 1,800
Each five minutes in excess of the first twenty (20) minutes CN 100.
RICKSHAWS
Fifteen minutes or less CN 100
Thirty minutes CN 200
Forty-Five minutes CN 250
PEDICABS
Ten minutes or less CN 100
Thirty minutes CN 400
One hour CN 800
Drive on the left.
Walk on the right.
Don't be a traffic casualty.
MILITARY CURFEW: Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, and Sunday: 2400 hours. Saturday and Holidays: 0030 hours.
SPEED LIMITS IN SHANGHAI AREA:
15 miles per hour within city limit.
20 miles per hour outside of city limits.
MAXIMUM PASSENGER CAPACITY OF VEHICLES:
Sedan-six (6), including driver.
Truck, Command, ¾ or 1/2 ton 4x4 - six (6), including driver
OUT OF BOUNDS:
a. Chinese City: Consists of the area bounded on the North by Deux Republiques, on the South and East by the Whangpoo River and on the West by Min Kuo Road.
- The Chinese City is the only area out of bounds. The Chapei and Hongkew areas are now in bounds.
IN BOUNDS:
Only the eating and drinking establishments displaying the "IN BOUNDS" sign are approved and will be patronized by Army personnel.
PROPHYLAXIS:
Prophylactic items are available for personnel of this Headquarters at the dispensary in the Rockefeller Hospital Building.
After 1700 hours prophylactic items will be available also at the MP stations of both the 14th Compound and the Rockefeller Compound.
PROPHYLACTIC STATIONS
1. Foreign YMCA. 8. Grosvenor House. 2. Navy YMCA. 9. Lunghwa Field-311th 3. New Asia Hotel. GP Dispensary-Han- 4. Race Course. gar.
5. Hamilton House. 10. Rockefeller Founda- 6. Wheelock Building. tion Hospital Dispen- 7. Marine Barracks sary - Ground Floor.
unless otherwise indicated