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An excerpt from Aldous Huxley's diary, 1926
I have seen places that were, no doubt, as busy and as thickly
populous as the Chinese city in Shanghai, but none that so overwhelmingly
impressed me with its business and populousness. In no city, West or East,
have I ever had such an impression of dense, rank richly clotted life. Old
Shanghai is Bergson's elan vital in the raw, so to speak, and with the lid off.
It is Life itself. Each individual Chinaman has more vitality, you feel, than
each individual Indian or European, and the social organism composed of
these individuals is therefore more intensely alive than the social organism in
India or the West. Or perhaps it is the vitality of the social organism - a
vitality accumulated and economised through centuries by ancient habit and
tradition. So much life, so carefully canalised, so rapidly and strongly
flowing - the spectacle of it inspires something like terror. All this was going
on when we were cannibalistic savages. It will still be going on, a little modified, perhaps by Western science, but not much-long after we in
Europe have simply died of fatigue. A thousand years from now the seal
cutters will still be engraving their seals, the ivory workers still sawing and
polishing, the tailors will be singing the merits of their cut and cloth, even as
they do to-day, the spectacled astrologers will still be conjuring silver out of
the pockets of bumpkins and amorous courtesans, there will be a bird
market, and eating houses perfumed with delicious cooking, and chemists
shops with bottles full of dried lizards, tigers' whiskers, rhinoceros horns and
pickled salamanders, there will be patient jewellers and embroiderers of
faultless taste, shops full of marvellous crockery, and furriers who can make
elaborate patterns and pictures out of variously coloured fox-skins, and the
great black ideographs will still be as perfectly written as they are to-day, or
were a thousand years ago, will be thrown on to the red paper with the
same apparent recklessness, the same real and assured skill, by a long fine
hand as deeply learned in the hieratic gestures of its art as the hand of the
man who is writing now. Yes, it will all be there, just as intensely and tenaciously alive as ever-all there a thousand years hence, five thousand, ten. You have only to stroll through old Shanghai to be certain of it. London and Paris offer no such certainty. And even India seems by comparison provisional and precarious.
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