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Chapter 7 - Native Chinese Life IN the International Settlement Chinese social life centres in the area West of Honan Road particularly on Foochow Road. Every visitor, of course, will want a Chinese feast and attempt the manipulation of chopsticks. It should be known that Chinese "chow" differs greatly according to the Province in which the chef was born. Cantonese food is generally agreed by foreigners to be the best, but opinions vary. Peking food is very popular, while natives of Foochow will attest that all food except in 
Foochow style is fit only for pigs. On Foochow Road, at any rate, there are Chinese restaurants of every type, offering Cantonese food, Ningpo banquets, Peking feasts and any other variety. There are also many Chinese tea houses on this street.
Chinese Theatres. The, Chinese theatre is another institution of interest. Judged by foreign standards, old-style Chinese stage performances on first acquaintance appear to be primitive in both form and execution. The absence of scenery and properties, the mingling of actors, musicians, and attendants on the stage, the acrobatics, trappings and gaudy make-up of performers, are apt to bring a smile to those who do not understand the ancient traditions of the
Chinese drama. The Chinese, however, concern themselves with the story being told. Every movement, every gesture, has a definite meaning and value. Inability to separate essentials from non-essentials merely shows a lack of true dramatic understanding.
Most of the old-style dramas are based on episodes in Chinese history and have been handed down from Yuan and Ming times. At present, probably as the result of the influence of the foreign "movies," the Chinese theatre shows a marked tendency to shed its old conventions. Modern plays with women taking part (a thing unheard of a few years ago) and stage "settings" in the approved Western style are frequently performed in Shanghai and other Treaty Ports and prove very popular.
There are three principal Chinese theatres in Shanghai where legitimate plays may be seen, The Tien Che, at Foochow and Honan Roads; the San Sing, on Chekiang Road near Peking Road, and the Kwong Theatre, on Avenue Edward VII near Thibet Road. There are also many Chinese cinemas (both sound and silent) in Shanghai, which should be seen to appreciate just how far the Chinese are progressing in this art. The Central Theatre on Yunnan Road and the Kwong Wha cinema on Avenue Foch, are popular Chinese cinemas as is the Kiu'Sing, also on Avenue Foch. From time to time, Chinese pictures (with English sub-captions) are shown in the foreign cinema houses. In all the Chinese theatres "refreshments" are supplied together with hot towels for cleansing the face and hands.THE CHINESE BUND
Shanghai is not China. It is everything else under the sun, and, in population at least, is mostly Chinese, but it is not the real China. For glimpses of genuine native life one must wander into the highways and byways beyond the confines of the International Settlement and French Concession.
Let's tour the Chinese Bund. It begins at the southern end of The Burd and the French Bund (Quai de France). (See previous chapters on The Bund and French Concession.) Begin this tour anywhere on The Bund or French Bund and continue to the South. A Chinese guide (travel agencies and hotels provide them) will be helpful.
Wood Merchants' Guild. The Chinese Bund is one of the busiest streets in Greater Shanghai. It is part of a district known as Nantao (Southern Market). Spread along the waterfront are dockyards, hospitals, and numerous shipping, timber, and rice offices. A quarter of a mile along the Chinese Bund brings one to what appears to be a Temple. It isn't. It is the guild-house of the wood merchants from Chuchou, in the Province of Chekiang. It may be entered by a narrow lane to the left of the building. There are two open courts, a theatre, a temple. The temple houses three gods, the principal one being Lupai, to whom the wood merchants refer for the settlement of any disputes that may arise among them.
A little farther on there is an archway in a white-washed wall, opening on a square enclosed by high walls. In it is a fair and a small market, with story-tellers, peep-shows, etc.
Proceeding, one finds among squalid tenements one of the most magnificent guild-houses in Shanghai, the Mosang Way Kway, also a timber merchants' guild. Excellent examples of work in Chinese style are to be found in this guild with its red and gold temple and theatre, pewter storks and incense-burners, and chequered patterned walls.
Cathedral of Tungkadoo. The Cathedral of Tungkadoo will be the next object of interest. It is a great church found in a fairly broad Chinese thoroughfare, built by Bishop de Besco. the foundation stone being laid in 1849. It is a large edifice in the classic style, white walled. There is a fine organ in the gallery.
The Chinese Bund was built in 1894, after a fire which destroyed 500 old Chinese houses. An enormous number of boats of every description line the river front. This floating population of China is permanent; the Chinese are horn, live and die, on their boats.
Beyond the water tower is a splendid Cantonese guild-house with white walls, the Jau Way Way Kway. It has a clean, flagged court and a five-storey pagoda-like building at the northwest corner. Two large flower vases are carved in high relief on the walls.THE CHINESE CITY The Chinese Bund being, in part, the Whangpoo riverfront boundary of the Chinese City, perhaps it should next be explored. Again, a native guide is recommended. If the Chinese City tour is to be a separate one, it is best entered from the South end of Rue Montauban, through the North Gate, a one-time entrance to the old walled city.
The First Temple. Once inside the Chinese City the first Temple may be seen. This is the Tsung Woo Day. Upstairs is an oblong apartment containing an image of Emperor Ye Fung, who was on the throne when the Temple was erected. On his left is a shrine to Kwangti, the God of War, and on his right a shrine to the Taoist trinity, the Three Pure Ones. From this Temple a long, straight street leads to the centre of the city. Sidewalk shops containing ivory, sandalwood and fans line the street. These may be seen in the process of manufacture. There are shops for brassware, pewter, silks and porcelains. In the summer the street is canopied with blue cloth and gives the effect of a bazaar.
A turn to the left at the end of this street and then to the right (don't worry, your guide will take you there anyway) and you reach the famous Willow Pattern Tea House (Woo Sing Ding), supposed to be the original of the tea house on "willow pattern" plates. Here also are two Chinese gardens, the City Temple and smaller shrines.
The tea house is built on stone pillars in a pool, approached by zigzag bridges. Around the pool may be had a kaleidoscopic glimpse of Chinese life. Dentists, doctors, toy vendors, cooks and jugglers carry on their trades in the open with admiring spectators freely offering advice. Near the pool are several bird markets with gorgeous collections.
The City Temple is situated in the centre of a maze of crowded, narrow streets lined with every kind of shop one can imagine. The Temple is entered either by the Great East Gate or the Temple of the Three Emperors. In the Temple there is a large central court which becomes a fair almost every afternoon, largely devoted to amusement. There are refreshment stalls, incense shops, toy salesmen and jugglers who perform marvellous disappearing acts and sleight-of-hand tricks. The Temple was originally established in the Han dynasty (B.C. 206-A.D. 25) under the name "Kin Shan Liao" (Golden Hill Temple) in memory of a beloved statesman, Hou Kwang. It acquired its present name (Chan Kwang Miao) during the Ming dynasty (A.D. 1368-1644) and was rededicated to Tsing Wu Pai, a high official of the period.
The Confucian Temple. The Confucian Temple is reached by streets largely devoted to the sale of clothing. Outside this Temple is a three-storey pagoda and facing it a pond and wall to exclude evil spirits. Along the walls of the court are sheds containing tablets to the 3,000 disciples of Confucius, the larger ones dedicated to his 70 superior disciples. Severe simplicity marks the interior of the Temple and the Tablet of Confucius holds the place of honour. The Mandarin's Garden, nearby, is enclosed by one of the finest dragon walls in China and the Garden itself is on a miniature scale with diminutive bridges and fountains, pools and rocks.
Seekers for curios are warned that many of those to be found in the Chinese City are excellent imitations of the authentic article.
In the Chinese City the streets are named for the wares in which they specialize, such as Jade Street, Ivory Street. Bird Street, Brass Street, etc. These names, naturally, are not in English but in Chinese; consult your guide.
The Big Bad General. A short distance from the North Gate, at the end of Rue Montauban, is Da Ching, once a guard-house or castle, now a Temple. It is a very beautiful and picturesque building, gardens surround it, and at one corner there is a pool. Youngsters may burst into lusty howls at the sight of General Chow, a black-faced warrior, who has been on guard in a narrow passage since 1100 B.C. In the hall beyond this passage is a shrine containing the figure of a famous Taoist priest and to his right is a shrine to the King of Snakes. Not a good place to go with shaky nerves.
The main Temple area is on the second floor. Kwangti, the God of War, holds the place of honour with two gentlemen attendants. On the right is the God of Medicine, Li Zung Yang, one of the eight immortals. On the left of the God of War is Zung Wong, the protective deity of the city. At the left of the entrance is the groom and charger of the God of War; on the right his boatmen and boat. Another room has a small shrine and beautiful stained glass windows. On the top floor are three gilt figures of the Taoist trinity, the Three Pure Ones.
Ancient Figures. In many market gardens of the Chinese City are huge ancient stone figures of horses, men, turtles, lions, much of the same type as those of the Ming tombs at Nanking. Just before reaching the South Gate, flanking which is a flourishing American mission, is the Tsi Ying An, a Temple to the Goddess of Mercy. A little farther on is the Dien Zung, the Temple of the God of Earth.
Ta Vung Leu, an old castle which has been converted into a Temple, is between the East and North gates near the city water-lower. Along the passage are mural paintings of the Buddhist Hades. In the Temple are shrines to the Kitchen God. His image is in every home and the Chinese explode many fire crackers and bombs near New Year's when this God ascends to Heaven to make a detailed report of all family sins during the year. By this din they hope to placate his austere majesty so that his memory will be at fault as he makes his report. The God's lips are also smeared with sugar to further sweeten his words.CHAPEI Chapei, the principal district of the Chinese governed Municipality of Greater Shanghai (refer 
to map), is chiefly important as an industrial section. Here is the North Railway Station (lines to Nanking and Woosung) upon which was centered the Japanese attack in the fighting early in 1932. Much of Chapei was destroyed in this undeclared war. Rapidly being rebuilt, many scars of warfare and fire yet remain in Chapei.
Chapei has many factories. Here are the famous silk filatures from which come bolts of beautiful brocaded silk.SICCAWEI AND LUNGHUA A visit should be made to Siccawei, a large Jesuit settlement, and Lunghua, where the only pagoda in the vicinity of Shanghai can be seen. Both places can be reached by a short motor trip via the French Concession.
Siccawei. Siccawei has an important place in the history of Shanghai on account of its association with Hsu Kwang-ch'i, friend and pupil of Matteo Ricci, the Jesuit Missionary. Hsu was born at Siccawei in 1562, and it was from his family the Jesuits acquired their present property in the village, which since 1848 has been a centre of Roman Catholic mission work.
Among the features of the settlement are a Meteorological Observatory, a museum, industrial schools, and orphanages for boys and girls. Various handicrafts are taught in the schools and workshops, from which come beautiful examples of carved wood furniture, lace and embroidery, printing, and metal and stained glass work.
The Observatory has achieved world-wide fame as a result of its researches. It is linked up with a network of seventy stations spread over a zone that includes Irkutsk at the northwest extremity, Nemura (Japan) in the northeast, Cap St. Jacques (Indo-China) in the southwest, and Guam in the southeast. By keeping track of typhoon and storm centres, and giving advance warning of their approach, the Observatory has contributed immensely to the safety of navigation on the China coast. The Observatory also maintains an astronomical station at Zo-se and a seismological station at Lo-ka-pang.
Lunghua. The chief attraction at Lunghua, a short distance from Siccawei, is the pagoda, which is in an excellent state of preservation. Legend dates it back to the third century. There is good reason to believe, however, that it was not built earlier than the ninth century. The pagoda may be ascended and the summit affords a fine view of the surrounding district.
Pagodas were first built in China about the third century and are Indian in origin. There are, it has been estimated, about 2,000 of them in China. They are always built with an odd number of storeys generally seven, nine, eleven, or thirteen - in accordance with a Buddhist belief that odd numbers are lucky. The Lunghua pagoda has seven storeys.
At the East side of the Lunghua pagoda is the Temple of the King of Heaven, which should also be seen.
Time permitting, the return trip to Shanghai can be made via Chung San Road, Hungjao Road, Monument Road and Pearee Road to the Soochow Creek boundary, from which the journey is continued along Brenan Road, Yu Yuen Road and Bubbling Well Road to town. The Hungjao Road section takes in the S.M.C. Nurseries, the Hungjao Golf Links and the Aerodrome. Jessfield Park is passed at the Brenan Road and Yu Yuen Road intersection.WOOSUNG A trip to Woosung on one of the well-appointed ferry-boats of the City Government of Shanghai affords a good close-up view of life on the Whangpoo. Boats run at frequent intervals from Pontoon No. 13 on the Bund, opposite Nanking Road. Calls are made at Ching-ning-hsih, Tungkou, and Kaochow, where the journey can be broken. The City Government maintains an interesting experimental garden at Tungkou. Visitors are welcomed. Good hiking along the waterfront and in the country can be obtained at Kaochow. To the East of Kaochow is an excellent bathing beach, reached by bus. Meals and accomodation are available at the Beach Hotel.
Woosung village and the Forts in the neighbourhood were almost wiped out as a result of bombardment during the Sino-Japanese conflict in 1932, and although rehabilitation is taking place, many evidences of the trouble remain.
The trip to Woosung may also be made by an excellent motor highway via Kiangwan or Yangtszepoo.
Pootung. Pootung lies across the Whangpoo from Shanghai. Much of this area, formerly marsh land, is now occupied by factories of the British-American Tobacco Co., the Japan-
China Cotton Spinning and Weaving Co., several egg factories, ship yards, landing piers of various steamship companies, godowns and the warehouses of the Standard Oil Co., the Asiatic Petroleum Co., and various other concerns.MOTOR TRIPS FROM SHANGHAI Few visitors to Shanghai, because of the vast distances usually travelled in coming here, now bring their own motor cars for pleasure tours, but some do and, of course, hire cars may be chartered here through reliable agencies for country motor trips.
Visitors who wish to land automobiles in Shanghai for a brief period may avoid paying import duty by depositing with the Chinese Maritime Customs a sum sufficient to cover duty and dues, to be returned provided the automobile is re-exported within two months. Local licenses must be obtained through the usual official channels. An International Settlement or French Concession license will serve in both districts, but an additional license must be obtained from the City Government of Greater Shanghai (Chinese) if the car is to enter Chinese territory.
Because of the first-hand, close-up view affurded of native life in the country, several short motor tours out of Shanghai are recommended.
Shanghai-Woosung Road (Woosung is 15 miles, by road, from Shanghai, and is situated at the junction of the Yangtsze and Whangpoo rivers): Start from the North end of Yangtszepoo Road; the road closely follows the Whangpoo to the historic Woosung Forts; continuing past the Forts, turn West just before reaching Paoshan, a walled city, and a further drive brings one to the Shanghai-Liuhu Road at Liuhang, where a turn to the left will continue the journey back to Shanghai. Several other roads lead off the Woosung Road to Kiangwan and other places.
Shanghai-Liuhu Road (Liuhu is 27 miles from Shanghai): Cross the Markham Road bridge and continue to Kung Ho Road, turn right and cross the railway along Kung Ho Hsin Road, thence continuing straight on to Liuhu. By turning East at Liuhang the return to Shanghai may be made by the Woosung Road (see foregoing paragraph).
Chungshan Road: Start from Lunghua and make a full circuit of Greater Shanghai, from the Whangpoo river South of the city to the Whangpoo North of the city, following the route of the Shanghai-Hangchow railway through Zikawei (Siccawei), across the Shanghai Municipal Council extra-Settlement roads to the Shanghai-Nanking railway, thence passing through Chapei, back of Hongkew Park, to the Woosung Road, where a turn to the right brings one back into the city.
Shanghai-Minghong Road (Minghong is 18 miles from Shanghai): Start from Route de Zikawei by crossing the Route Ghisi bridge or Zikawei bridge, in either case turning to the right; the Chungshan Road and Shanghai-Hangchow railway are crossed shortly; continue to Minghong village, the Whangpoo river being just beyond.
By crossing the Whangpoo by the Minghong ferry, a motor tour may be made over a new road to Hangchow, 134 miles from Shanghai (see Chapter Twelve, "Excursions From Shanghai").
Once in Hangchow, the motorist may drive on to Nanking, 215 miles from Hangchow, through a beautiful country.
Sungkiang. On the drive to Minghong the tourist, by turning to the right at Peichiao, 12 miles from Shanghai, will reach Sungkiang, 26 miles from Shanghai, where the tomb of General Frederick Townsend Ward, the American hero of the Taiping Rebellion, is located (see Chapter One, "Historical Background," for references to Ward).NATIVE FESTIVALS Lest the visitor to Shanghai be suddenly startled by an apparently meaningless display of fireworks, it is well to know the approximate dates of the principal Chinese festivals.
Chinese New Year. New Year generally falls in February, that month being the Chinese first moon. Practically all native business in China during a two-week period at Chinese New Year is at a standstill, but the temples, theatres, and eating houses are thronged. On the morning of New Year's Day Chinese coolies distribute visiting cards, all the Chinese turn out in their most gorgeous attire and Nanking Road and Avenue Edward Vll are so crowded that they are practically impassable. Throughout the nights there is an incessant sound of firecrackers. It is at New Year that the Chinese must meet all his financial obligations or suffer disgrace.
Feast of Lanterns. The fifteenth day of February (first moon) is a fixed feast day. At this time the Ningpo Guild is decidedly worth a visit, at Boulevard des Deux Republiques, French Concession. It is gorgeous with lanterns.
Feast of Tsing Ming. The Feast of Tsing Ming is a movable Chinese festival which may occur anytime from the end of March to the middle of April. It is one of the three principal festivals of China. Literally, it is the "Feast of the Dead." Practically all Chinese then worship and offer sacrifices at the graves of their ancestors. Originally it was a memorial day but it has developed into a rite to conciliate the spirits of ancestors and to retain their good favour. The Chinese, if away from home, endeavour to return to celebrate this feast.
Dai Wong Festival. The Dai Wong festival takes place in the middle of April. A great procession starts from the Dai Wong Temple on Sinza Road about 9 a.m. An image of Dai Wong, paper flowers, immense paper dragons, banners, etc., are carried. Paper "food" is taken for offerings. Those in the procession are usually gorgeously dressed in silks and satin brocades. Eight of the fattest men form one group, dressed in splendid crimson silks. Dai Wong is the God of Rain and the guardian of the farmers.
Dragon Boat Festival. Since its origin in 450 B.C. the Dragon Boat Festival has always taken place about the middle of June. The festival is the anniversary of a hero's death. A faithful minister of state was dismissed by his prince and threw himself into a small river in Hunan to show his humiliation. Friends, afraid that fishes would devour his body, set out to recover his corpse. They threw rice into the river so that his spirit wouldn't starve. Since then, on the anniversary of the hero's death, dragon boats race on the rivers of China, presumably looking for his body. The boats are decorated with silk hangings, banners, lamps, embroideries, etc.
Mid-Autumn Festival. The Chung-Chiu-chieh, or Mid-Autumn Festival, is in the eighth moon, about the middle of August. This occurs at full moon and altars covered with fruits may be seen in large numbers at all the Chinese shops, on the verandahs, and out in the open. Moon-cakes are eaten at this time and they may be found in red packets in all the native confectioners' shops.FEMININE FASHIONS To the foreign eye it would appear that Chinese ladies once found a certain style of dress, liked it, and decided to keep it forever. That is entirely wrong. Chinese styles change just as often as Occidental styles.
As in great Occidental style centres it is the men who inaugurate the season's fashions and the tailors in Shanghai set the mode for feminine dress all over China. Occidental fashions are always taken into consideration. In colour and length the prevailing foreign style is usually followed, but the skirt slits, collars and sleeves are made up according to Oriental trends and convenience. Slits, all evidence to the contrary, are not the result of a lack of modesty but simply a desire to turn masculine. High slits in Chinese men's gowns prevail and consequently the women who desire the "new freedom" also go in for high slits. At the moment slits are on the downward trend and it is becoming the Chinese mode to be feminine again.
The collar on a Chinese dress always has been and, presumably, always will be. The width of the collar, however, varies according to the length of the skirt. Sleeves, at the moment, are usually very tight. A few years ago they were extremely wide.
Material, however, stays more or less constant in China. Velvet may be decreed in Paris but silk is cheap in Shanghai and silk it remains. But the decorations of the gown change each season. They are usually selected with an eye to design and colour of the material. Simple band trimmings prevail some seasons. Lace is all the vogue during other seasons. Sometimes double band trimmings make single band trimmings old-fashioned.
Long gowns have been in fashion only for about eight years, a style taken over from the Manchus. Before that skirts and short blouses were worn by women. Girls wore trousers. After they were married they graduated to skirts but not before. Trousers were the prerogative of children and maidens. In former days women's clothing was amply padded, but today the fad for slenderness has eliminated all surplus material.
According to the National Health Administration of Nanking something like 6,000,000 persons in China die every year from causes other than natural ones.
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