First Impressions

When a traveller arrives in Shanghai to-day he is struck by the fact that to all intents and purposes he might be in a large European city. The tall buildings, the well-paved streets, the large hotels and clubs, the parks and bridges, the stream of automobiles, the trams and buses, the numerous foreign shops, and, at night, the brilliant electric lighting - all are things he is accustomed to in the homeland.

Of course there is much that is different; the crowds of Chinese in the streets, the imposing Sikh policemen, the ricshas and the wheelbarrows and the Chinese shops with their ornate gilding and picturesque signboards.

Shanghai is a very cosmopolitan place, a meeting-ground for people from all countries, a great and a unique city, one of the most remarkable in the world.

When the stranger is told that the land now occupied by the International Settlement and the French Concession was originally a low mud bank with scattered Chinese hamlets, he is surprised and astonished at the marvellous growth that has taken place between 1843 and 1927, a period of about 85 years.

The Old Native City

Before the advent of the foreigner to the shores of China, the old city of Shanghai had existed for many years. It is situated in latitude 31' 41' 15" North, longitude 121,29' East, in the province of Kiangsu, on the left, or west, bank of the Whangpoo, about 12 miles from the point where that river empties itself into the estuary of the Yangtze. Into the Wbangpoo, a short distance to the north, flows the Soochow Creek, a waterway connecting Shanghai with the cities of the hinterland.

It was built on delta land formed in ancient days by the silt from the Yangtze River. Just when the city was first founded it is impossible to say, but it is mentioned in history 2,150 years ago. Judging from its old name "Hu," it probably first came into importance as a fishing town. Owing to its excellent anchorage, it was destined to become a commercial port, and in A.D. 1280 it was re-named Shanghai, meaning "above the sea," or "Upper Sea." From the fact that there is another place some distance below the present city, called "Hsia Hai" or "Lower Sea," it is supposed that originally there may have been two arms of the sea, extending inland, one known as the "Lower Sea," and the other as the "Upper Sea," and that Shanghai derived its name through being built on the "Upper Sea."

On account of the depredations of Japanese pirates,permission was obtained to enclose it with a wall in A.D.1554. This wall was removed after the Revolution of 1911, and the moat which originally surrounded it was filled up, making it difficult for the stranger to tell now where the old native city begins.

Shanghai, from the historical point of view, is insignificant compared with other large Chinese cities. One of the most famous local sites is the temple Ching An Ssu, close by the Bubbling Well, about three miles from The Bund of the modern Settlement. This well is known as the sixth spring of importance in the country. Its "bubbling," which appears mysterious to visitors, is caused by the formation of marsh and carbonic acid gas.

Near the temple is held every year in the spring what is known as the Bamboo Fair. It comes at the time of the birthday of Buddha. Articles made of bamboo and other commodities are on sale for several days and vast crowds of purchasers and sightseers gather in the same way as at a country fair.

Another notable site is that of the Lunghua, or "Dragon Flower," Pagoda, which dates from the later Han Dynasty, A.D. 221, or, according to another account, from the Tang Dynasty, A.D. 800.

One other historic place, Siccawei, might be mentioned, although it belongs to a much later period. The correct spelling of the name in the Shanghai dialect would be Zi-ka-wei, and from this Siccawei has been derived. The Chinese characters mean, "the residence of the family Zi." Here was born, in 1562, HsO Kwang-ch'i, or as he was afterwards called Paul Hsu (Hsti is the mandarin pronunciation of Zi). He was one of the first of the high Chinese officials to enter the Christian Church, being pupil, convert, and friend of the great Jesuit missionary Matteo Ricci. He was a great scholar and the author of several important works, among them being a tract written in 1616 in defence of the Christian Religion. His family property was afterwards acquired by the Jesuits and became the site of the large work now carried on at Siccawei. His grave may be seen at Siccawei at the south-west corner of the Church of St. Ignatius.

Shanghai passed through many vicissitudes. Between the 14th and 18th centuries there were more than 40 periods of public distress, some of them due to floods, probably caused by typhoons, and others to the incursions of the Japanese pirates, who for many years harried the coasts of China.

First Attempts to Open up Commerce with China

Owing to the difficulties under which trade was carried on in the factories, or trading posts, at Canton, several attempts were made by British merchants to open up new points of access.

In 1832 the East India Company despatched the ship "Lord Amherst" from Macao on a commercial mission in charge of Mr. Hugh Hamilton Lindsay with the Rev. Charles Gutzlaff as interpreter. Wherever he called along the coast, Mr Lindsay met a series of rebuffs. After failing to gain admittance into Amoy, Foochow, and Ningpo, he proceeded to Shanghai. The officials of that port had been notified of his coming and were prepared to oppose his entrance into the harbour. He managed, however, to obtain an interview with the Taotai, the official in charge of trade, in the temple of the Queen of Heaven.

Although received with scant courtesy, he was able to present his petition. He was told, however, that the right of trade could only be allowed at Canton and was advised to return there as soon as possible. Trade with Shanghai being impossible, Mr. Lindsay left for Korea.

Reasons for the Unwillingness to Trade

When we consider that a certain amount of trade had always been carried on between China and Western countries by the overland route through Central Asia, it seems strange that so many obstacles were put in the way of trade by the new sea routes. The obstinate attitude of the Chinese Government was due to many causes. Undoubtedly the piratical incursions of the Portuguese traders along the coast injured the reputation of Western traders, and gave some excuse for regarding them as barbarians.

The real reason, however, for the strong opposition was that these merchants from the West were demanding the privilege of trade as a right to which they were entitled, and asked that commercially and diplomatically they should be treated on terms of equality.

Furthermore, the trade of the overland routes had been very limited in scope, while that by the sea route was carried on on a much larger scale. In those days China regarded imports as an evil and thought that the purchase of foreign goods resulted in the outflow of money and in the consequent impoverishment of the country.

Although in his report,Proceedings on a Voyage to the Northern Ports of China in the Ship Lord Amherst, Mr. Lindsay described Shanghai as an excellent entreport for commerce, the East India Company did not seem to appreciate its possibilities. Even after the monopoly of trade of that Company ceased in 1834, Shanghai was not deemed of much importance in the minds of British merchants.

For a time it seemed as if one of the Chusan Islands might be destined to be the centre of British trade in East China rather than Shanghai, but after the signing of the Treaty of Nanking, these islands were evacuated.

The Battle of Woosung

During the first war between China and Great Britain, 1840-1843, in order to bring hostilities to a close, the British decided to invade the North, so as to strike a blow at the Central Government. A British fleet commanded by Vice- Admiral Sir William Parker, with a military force of 4,000 men under Sir Henry Gough, was despatched for this purpose. Amoy, Ningpo, and Chapoo were taken in succession, and on June 13, 1842, the expedition reached Woosung and found itself at the outer gate of Shanghai.

The Chinese authorities had neglected to make adequate preparations, but when they realized that Shanghai was to be attacked, they did what they could to strengthen its defences and to block the mouth of the Yangtze against the British fleet. The forts at Woosung on both sides of the Whangpoo were rebuilt and enlarged. Earthworks, following the course of the Yangtze, were constructed on the Woosung side, having an extreme length of three and a third miles, between the Woosung Creek and the town of Paoshan. A large number of more or less ancient guns was collected to arm the forts. These guns were ten feet long and had an inner tube of wrought metal round which the outer covering had been run. Among them were 16- and 24-pounders. Some were of brass and were mounted in such a way that they could traverse on a pivot, but were without any device by which they could be elevated or lowered.

As to the native troops engaged, although some Tartars and regular troops had been hurried to the place, the larger proportion was inefficient, composed of recruits hastily gathered from the towns and villages. There were 30 armed vessels, some of which were junks provided with paddle wheels revolved by coolies somewhat in the same way as they work the water wheels for irrigating the fields. Boats worked in this way could travel about three miles an hour.

The British fleet, sailing in unknown waters, approached Shanghai slowly. On the morning of June 16, at 6 o'clock, the men-of-war, being sailing vessels, were towed into position by the steamers, so as to face the Chinese lines at the short distance of 500 yards or less. While this manoeuvre was being carried out, the Chinese began hostilities and as a result of their first volley several of the British ships were hulled, three men being killed and others severely wounded.

As soon as the ships were in position, however, the British gunners showed their superiority over the untrained, undisciplined and badly equipped enemy. The junks were easily put to flight and although the land forces put up a brave resistance, they were completely overwhelmed and compelled to abandon the forts.

When the British landed and advanced to Paoshan, the Chinese troops in po ssession of the city retreated towards Soochow.

Viceroy Niu, in command of the Chinese forces, gives the following quaint account of the fray: "Cannon balls innumerable, flying in awful confusion through the expanse of heaven, fell before, behind and on either side of him; while in the distance he saw the ships of the rebels standing erect, lofty as mountains. The fierce daring of the rebels was inconceivable; officers and men fell at their posts, every effort to resist and stay the onset was in vain, and a retreat became inevitable."

The Chinese officer who showed the greatest bravery was Chin Chang-ming, a Fukienese. He had been 50 years at sea and at the time of the battle was 76 years of age. Even after the others had fled, he remained at his post undaunted, and assisted in serving the guns. His remains were afterwards buried in the City Temple of Shanghai and an image was erected in his memory.

Advance on Shanghai

Altogether about 200 Chinese lost their lives in the battle. After the fall of the forts, the British advanced on Shanghai by land and water. Lt.-Col. Montgomerie was in charge of a landing detachment of about 2,000 men which proceeded across the fields, encountering no difficulties except those connected with transporting the heavy guns across the innumerable creeks intersecting the country.

The villagers came out in crowds to see the sight of well disciplined foreign troops with horses and artillery quietly making their way to Shanghai, but showed no unfriendliness.

After a time the detachment struck the Soochow Creek, then known as the Woosung River, and arrived at the stone bridge at Sinza, i.e., "the new lock" or "canal gate."

Crossing the bridge the troops passed through what is now part of the Int ernational Settlement towards the suburbs of the city. While so doing they heard the sound of firing on the left and saw a small native force in flight. When they came within sight of the walls a few shots were fired by the defenders but no real resistance was made. Some soldiers climbed over the wall at the North Gate, and opening it from the inside, admitted the troops. Inside the city they found a scene of great confusion, as some of the people were fleeing by the other gates and a rabble was engaged in looting.

The land force arrived first, but soon after its entry into the city the masts of the warships on their way up the river came in sight. The fleet, consisting of four fighting ships and four steamers to tow them, had left Woosung at eight o'clock in the morning, while a fifth steamer, the "Medusa," conveyed Admiral Parker, Sir Henry Gough and other officers.

There was no sign of opposition until the leading squadron came opposite the present site of the Hongkew wharves, when it was greeted by a salvo, fired from a battery stationed on what is now the lawn of the British Consulate. >From this position, which commanded the approach to the city, much damage might have been done, but only a single volley was fired and that at such a distance that the missiles did not reach the British vessels. The reply of the British silenced the battery, and the Chinese garrison took to flight. This was the sound of firing that had been heard by the land force after crossing the Sinza Bridge.

The ships passed on, finding plenty of water and dropped their anchors in nine fathoms. A landing was effected close to the city, but a party under Captain Cunynghame went ashore some distance from the wall near a temple, which was afterwards converted into the Custom House and which stood on The Bund until it was torn down to give place to the building erected in 1893.

In the city all signs of authority had vanished. Looting was the order of the day and rich prizes were obtained from the pawn shops. At first some of the British troops also engaged in plunder and carried on a brisk trade selling their ill-gotten gains to the Chinese on the waterfront and over the walls of the city. This lasted, however, only until strong patrols of British troops were sent to restore order. After that the people who remained in the city went about their usual business without disturbance, and there was no further fear of violence.

While the force occupied Shanghai, a survey of the upper Whangpoo River was made by a part of the fleet as far as the vicinity of Soochow, and Admiral Parker and some of his officers paid a visit to Sungkiang.

The occupation of Shanghai lasted for only a week. On June 23 it was evacuated and the forces left to take part in the expedition up the Yangtze. Some attempts were made by the Chinese to enter into negotiations, but the British postponed the final settlement until the conclusion of the expedition.