Xiangmanlou Restaurant - on the corner of Yunnan Nan Lu and Yanan Dong Lu. A sort of self-service canteen in a forest with budgerigars swinging from the ceiling and vast pools of fat simmering behind the counters. The concrete trees and plastic foliage create an interesting atmosphere, and the food is pretty good and cheap. The smelly beancurd is recommended and also the onion cakes. TEL: 6320-3553.
Lucky City - Gaolan Lu near Sinan Lu. A converted Russian orthodox church, stained glass windows, good seafood. Don't be fooled by the singing from upstairs, it's just karaoke.
Dragon Phoenix Hall - Peace Hotel, 8th Floor. Great river views, high prices, pretty good food.
The Folk restaurant - 57 Nanchang Lu, just to the east of Sinan Lu. It's very white and bright, and the management is so proud of its mastery of the fine art of cooking strange and wonderful animal parts that it has a display of some of them in the hall on the way in. Tiger's paws are just an appetizer in this gastronomic gallery. They also have a host of traditional and rare Shanghainese dishes. (6372-9893)
The Gap - 127 Maoming Nan Lu (opposite Garden Hotel). Reservation number 6433-9028. Huge old converted theatre. Live music. Did I say huge? It's huge.
Magic Restaurant Fuzhou Lu, opposite Metropole Hotel. Magic shows every lunchtime and at 6.15 in the evening.
Meilongzhen 22, 1081 Lane, Nanjing Xilu. A famous state restaurant dating from 1938, famous for Imperial Concubine's chicken (Guifei Ji). The building has been extensively re-modelled, each room has its own character.Prices are reasonable and the service is okay. TEL: 6256-6688.
Nan Jiang Zhuang Yuan Lou, 162 Xizang Zhong Lu, 6322-5280
Old Town Restaurant, 242 Fuyou Lu, 6328-2782
Shanghai Restaurant, 5-7 Shaanxi Nan Lu, City Hotel, 6255-1133
Sunshine Cafe - corner of Fuxing and Huaihai Zhong Lu. Modern, western café atmosphere, good menu.
Taiyuan Villa - Taiyuan Lu. An old French-style villa in a large garden compound. Order the good, cheap Shanghainese fare then go outside and take a stroll in the gardens while you wait to be served.
Tianlun Restaurant - 117 Shaanxi Nanlu. Two kinds of onion cake!
Tiantian Seafood restaurant - Julu Lu nr Fumin Lu. Cavernous place, good food, dinner crowds and real-time mass kara-oke. A song from a sing-song girl at your table costs 100 RMB.TEL: 6279-3619.
Xiaoting Hotpot Restaurant - 7/F, International Shopping Center, 527 Huai Hai Zhong Road Tel: 6375-2828, 6358-5449.
Xin Gong Restaurant - 18 Pu Hui Tang Lu 6439-9792. Bright lights: dark glasses are required during dinner. The decor is high class and the food is good.
Yulan restaurant - 70 Donghu Lu, 6415-8158. Comfortable place, kara-oke in the back. No noodles.